Check out a 2020 updated version of this post on my new blog: The History Nerds Guide To The Castles Of Wales
Wales is known as the land of castles and for good reason! There were over 600 castles, of which an impressive 100 are still standing. Wales has a castle for everyone! Really, you like ruins? Tons! Do you want to see a more intact castle? They’ve got you! Oh, you want to see a fairytale castle? Got it!
Why are there so many castles in Wales? The answer is simple but Welsh history is a sad tale of a proud people who were constantly being subjugated. It started as early as the Normans when they began their invasion of Wales, they built either a ringwork or motte & bailey castle at the crossing of each river they came upon.
Of course, the most famous castles in Wales were built by Edward I (Longshanks) of England, the man responsible for the final conquest and subjugation of the country. He spent both a great deal of time and money to ensure that the Welsh understood that Wales no longer belonged to them. He was also known as the hammer of the Scots (but more on that later). He built major castles at Caernarfon, Criccieth, Harlech, Beaumaris, and Conwy in addition to the strongholds at Aberystwyth, Flint, Rhuddlan, and Builth.
In the process, he developed a new style of military architecture known as “Edwardian castles.” However, it wasn’t Edward but the person he brought in to mastermind the enormous construction program, the famous Savoyard, Master James of St George who transformed this new style of castle. He innovated concentric architecture, and his concentric castles have no central strong point like a keep. Instead, they rely on rings of walls, one inside the other, with towers along the length of the walls. The beauty of this design being that the walls could be easily defended.
Unsurprisingly, Edward deliberately chose to destroy elements of Welsh tradition and heritage. For instance, Conwy Castle was built over the traditional burial place of Llywelyn the Great, who was the ruler and dominated Wales for nearly 45 years before Edward conquered.
I love all of the castles that I’ve visited in Wales, but I do have a few favorites!
Castle St, Caerphilly CF83 1JD, UK
9 am – 5 pm.
More info here.
Caerphilly Castle is a medieval fortification in Caerphilly in South Wales. The castle was constructed by Gilbert de Clare in the 13th century (1268–1290) as part of his campaign to conquer Glamorgan. It saw extensive fighting between Gilbert, his descendants, and the native Welsh rulers. Ironically, fear of a Welsh prince motivated the mightiest medieval castle in Wales. Llywelyn ap Gruffudd didn’t build Caerphilly Castle. He attempted to knock it down twice before it was finished. But he was undoubtedly its inspiration.
It’s my favorite because of its sheer size and stature. To me, it looks exactly what you want a medieval castle to look like. Medieval history is some of my favorite, so of course, I love medieval fortifications. I loved the falling tower too. Oh and the irony that it was built in fear of a Welsh prince.
Castle Ditch, Caernarfon LL55 2AY, UK
9:30 am – 5 pm.
More info here.
Caernarfon Castle is recognized around the world as one of the greatest buildings of the Middle Ages. We agree! The sheer size, architectural drama and the amount of intact castle make Caernarfon something special. The castle was born out of a bitter war with Welsh princes. So of course, its immense curtain walls and daunting King’s Gate were designed to survive an assault. It was here that Edward and his military architect Master James of St George erected the castle, town walls and a harbor all at the same time. This enormous building project ultimately took 47 years and cost a shocking £25,000.
This is another castle that is just dreamy (not the MR’s words). On our last visit to Wales, there was a special installation called the “Weeping Window.” Similar to the installation at the Tower of London, each red poppy represented a welsh life lost in WWII. It was stunning to see and when you looked from above you could see that the poppies actually made a dragon claw. How awesome?
Cardiff CF15 7JS, UK
9:30 am – 5 pm
More info here.
It’s easy to understand why they call Castell Coch the fairytale castle! It was built on the foundation of a 13th century castle and in 1875 the third marquess of Bute began to build this fairytale castle. It was designed by William Burges, who was an eccentric architect, to say the least. Let’s just say he didn’t reign in his imagination when it came to Castell Coch and I am here for it!! To this day Castell Coch remains a magnificent vision of a fantasy medieval world.
To be completely honest I came to Castell Coch for one reason: that gorgeous drawing room ceiling. It was giving me hardcore Beauty and the Beast library vibes. But I loved that there were fairies on the beams in certain rooms and a few hidden fairy doors too. Everything about this castle felt different from the other castles of Wales. Definitely, something to see! We almost had the castle completely to ourselves (we went as soon as it opened) and only had to share it with a film crew.
A470, Dolwyddelan LL25 0JD, UK
10 am – 5 pm
More info here.
I thought it was important to include some WELSH castles on this list because many of the bigger castles were built by invaders/conquerors. Dolwyddelan Castle is a Welsh castle in North Wales. It is thought to have been built in the early 13th century by Llywelyn the Great, Prince of Gwynedd and Wales. In other words, Dolwyddelan is as Welsh as the mountains of Snowdonia that provide its spectacular backdrop. It was eventually captured by Edward and it marked a vital stage in his unyielding campaign to crush the Welsh once and for all.
We’ve visited this castle more than once and the scenery is truly spectacular. However, be warned this particular castle is on farmland and make sure to park in the parking lot down below at the road. Then you need to walk up to the farm to pay admission (CSSC membership cards — Time credit vouchers and other non-Cadw free entry schemes are not valid at this site.) Understandably, the owner does not take kindly to people driving up to the farmhouse because there isn’t much room to park. Don’t miss this beauty!
Castle St, Criccieth LL52 0DP, UK
10 am – 5 pm
More info here.
This is another Welsh castle and one that crowns a rocky cliff between two beaches it commands amazing views over the town and across the expansive sweep of Cardigan Bay. First, Llywelyn the Great, created the massive gatehouse flanked by D-shaped stone towers. Then his grandson Llywelyn ap Gruffudd (Llywelyn the Last), added the outer ward, curtain walls, and two newer towers. Of course, Criccieth was also invaded and overtaken by Edward I. He made a few improvements of his own, equipping the north tower with a stone-throwing machine to discourage Welsh attacks. This was until 1404 when the castle and town became Welsh again after Owain Glyndŵr burnt the towers down.
You will know this castle right away because you just can’t miss it up on the hill. This is a beautiful ruin with stunning views. I completely understand why it was an English garrison after the Welsh princes fell. It was a fantastic strategic location.
Harlech LL46 2YH, UK
9:30 am – 5 pm
More info here.
Harlech Castle is an Edward I castle but it has arguably the most beautiful coastal setting. Harlech was completed from the ground to battlements in just seven years under the guidance of architect Master James of St George. Its classic ‘walls within walls’ design make the most of daunting natural defenses. What’s special about Harlech is the ‘Way from the Sea’ making the castle essentially unconquerable as it had a path of 108 steps rising steeply up the rock face. This allowed the besieged defenders to be fed and watered by ship and made it possible for the castle to hold strong during siege/rebellion.
We visited Harlech Castle on our first trip to Wales. What sticks out most in my memory are the beautiful views. Not only is Harlech coastal but you can also see Snowdonia in the background. I remember it being a little more ruined than some of Edwards other castles (Caernarfon and Conwy specifically). But sometimes I find those ruins more stunning than the more intact castles.
Castle St, Beaumaris LL58 8AP, UK
9:30 am – 5 pm
More info here.
While Beaumaris Castle is beautiful Edward I was never able to completely finish his masterpiece of near-perfect symmetry. It was the last of the royal strongholds created by Edward I in Wales – and perhaps would have been his masterpiece. After constructing 3 great castles, Caernarfon, Conwy and Harlech – this was to be the castle of all castles. However, trouble in Scotland (remember, that Hammer of the Scots moniker) meant that building work was put on hold. Magnificently incomplete Beaumaris is perhaps the greatest achievement of the ultimate military architect of the age.
So, this castle is absolutely stunning and a must visit but I have never seen so many birds in my life!! I have a slight fear of birds, that I have been working on more lately, but I had a pigeon fly into my head at this castle. I also witnessed a stray cat come out of a castle wall and kill a pigeon right in front of me. The animals here do not play around!!
Rose Hill St, Conwy LL32 8AY, UK
9:30 am – 5 pm
More info here.
Impressively, this Magnificent medieval fortress continues to tower over the town of Conwy after 700 years. In the distance rises Snowdonia and below are the harbor and narrow streets of Conwy, which is still protected by a continuous 1,400-yard ring of town walls. Edward I somehow built this impressive beauty in only 4 years between 1283 and 1287. Conwy is special because it is exceptionally well preserved. It contains the most intact set of medieval royal apartments in Wales.
Conwy felt special to me the first time we visited, and I had to go back when we returned to Wales. The first time we visited Conwy Castle we stopped at the Knight Shop directly across from the castle. On our last visit in 2016, we got some amazing mead at the shop. We would absolutely recommend checking out this shop! On our first visit, the shop owner (or worker, I’m sorry I can’t remember) told us about how they wanted to do a reenactment at Conwy for an anniversary (maybe of Edward I conquering Wales) and the Welsh refused to participate. I say, good for them! Conwy is really impressive and definitely worth a visit.
Raglan Castle, Castle Rd, Raglan NP15 2BT, United Kingdom
9:30 am – 5 pm
More info here.
You can’t miss the distinctive silhouette of Raglan crowning a ridge amidst the magnificent countryside. It is considered the grandest castle ever built by Welshmen. Raglan came about 150 years later than the turbulent heyday of castle-building. It was designed as much to impress as it was to intimidate. Under various earls of Worcester Raglan was transformed into a country seat with a fashionable long gallery and an impressive Renaissance gardens. However, loyalty to the crown was to prove its downfall. A garrison of 800 men and one of the longest sieges of the Civil War later, Raglan fell to parliamentary forces and was intentionally destroyed.
On our first visit to Wales, we drove from England and Raglan was the first castle we stumbled upon. This was the first castle I had ever seen in my life and there is just something special about that. Our first trip to Raglan was a bit rushed because we had a lot of driving to do that day, so I had to come back on our return trip. I got to explore at my own pace the second time and found Raglan even more charming when I could pay attention to all of the small details. We had the castle almost to ourselves because it was closing soon and in case you’ve never had a castle all to yourself – it’s freakin’ awesome!
A4086, Caernarfon LL55 4UB, UK
Open 24 hours because it is very ruined. It’s really only the single tower.
More info here.
Known as the guardian of Llanberis Pass (yes, you absolutely need to do this drive) this is another Welsh castle. Occupying a solitary spot overlooking the waters of Llyn Padarn, this castle was once a fundamental link in the defenses of the ancient kingdom of Gwynedd. Llywelyn the Great most likely built this castle sometime in the 12th or 13th century and the location was strategic because it sat watch over the inland route from Caernarfon to Conwy.
The setting of this castle is gorgeous! If you are already in Snowdonia I think this is a must visit. I mean, look at it! I will say that this is one of the most ruined castles I’ve ever seen in Wales. It’s just the tower and it’s almost completely open. You walk up the steps to a small awning where you can look around a bit but that’s all you can do here. The walk from the car park to the castle was gorgeous though.
Manorbier, Tenby SA70 7SY, UK
10 am – 5 pm
More info here.
We stumbled upon Manobier Castle while driving in Pembrokeshire and randomly decided to stop and check it out. Unlike all of the other castles listed this is a smaller castle that you won’t find in any guidebooks. The Norman Knight, Ode de Barri, was granted the lands of Manobier in gratitude for his help in conquering Pembrokeshire. It began as an earth and timber fortification and eventually was replaced with stone. Barri’s 4th son, who is known as Gerald of Wales was born at the castle. If you have a degree in European History (hand shoots up) you will most likely be familiar with Gerald of Wales, he was a pretty famous chronicler of the world in his lifetime.
We decided to stop here because of the gorgeous scenery around the castle. It’s perched on a hill above a beach in Pembrokeshire, I mean, c’mon! There is also a chapel across from the castle. We didn’t have a chance to check it out but it was beautiful. For us, this castle will forever be known as Honeybee Castle. You could hear bee’s buzzing around inside the walls while you were walking through the castle ruins. It was very cool!
Check back Tuesday for a Travel Through Photos of the Castles of Wales! I just have too many photos that I want to share!